Ask anyone what comes to mind when they think about Thanksgiving, most often, pies come to mind. While Thanksgiving side dishes can become somewhat controversial to most folks, I think everyone can agree on pies. While pumpkin pie is usually the pie that is truly associated with Thanksgiving, in the past years, other pies have entered the picture and are giving pumpkin a run for the money.
A BRIEF HISTORY
Why do we eat pies for Thanksgiving? The answer isn’t simply “the colonists ate it.” In fact, the Thanksgiving meal tradition that we think of today was quite different from how it was eaten in 1621. As a matter of fact, pumpkin pie wasn’t even served during that feast.
When settlers arrived in Plymouth in 1620, they were introduced to pumpkins by the Native Americans, who taught them how to cook stews with it and possibly pies. Some claim that this led to serving pumpkin pie on the first Thanksgiving, but this is not true.
According to History.com, the pilgrims wouldn’t even have butter or flour to make the pie crust. Some have speculated that they might have hollowed out pumpkins and filled them with milk, spices, and honey, making essentially a custard.
WHO MADE THE FIRST PUMPKIN PIE
So if hollowing out a pumpkin and filling it with spices and honey was not considered a pie, then who made the first pumpkin pie? A French man named Francois Pierre la Varenne wrote one of the most famous cookbooks of the 17th century, Le Vrai Cuisinier Francois (The True French Cook) where the first pumpkin pie recipe was shared.
It was called “Tourte of Pumpkin” and featured a pastry shell instead of the pie shell we know today. Later in the 17th century, recipes for “pumpion pies” began to pop up in many English cookbooks. Then in 1796, the American cookbook called American Cookery was published containing a pumpkin pie recipe close to what we see today.
THE TRADITION STARTS
So how did pumpkin pie become a staple on Thanksgiving tables today? According to the Washington Post, that credit goes to Sarah Hale, a popular magazine editor for the pumpkin pie tradition. Apparently, after reading about the original 1621 feast, she advocated to US Presidents and politicians to proclaim Thanksgiving as an American Holiday.
In 1827, she wrote a novel called Northwood: Life North and South and included a recipe for pumpkin pie that inspired many Americans to make it a staple on their Thanksgiving table.
PIES, PIES, AND MORE PIES
While pumpkin pie reigns supreme at Thanksgiving, I thought I would highlight other pies to consider besides pumpkin. Other popular pies served are pecan, sweet potato, and apple pies. If you’re hosting a dinner, consider different types to satisfy and appease everyone.
The first pie I’m showcasing is from the cookbook The Good Book of Southern Baking by pastry chef Kelly Fields. Kelly spent a great deal of her time in well-known kitchens in New Orleans, including Restaurant August as their pastry chef. She later opened her own restaurant and bakery, Willa Jean in New Orleans. Being from New Orleans, I have eaten there and it is a must if you travel there.
SWEET POTATO PIE, BUT BETTER
In this recipe, Kelly creates an elevated pie using a marshmallow and honey topping. Once it’s baked and cooled, you can top it in a variety of ways: pile the marshmallow topping in the center, use a piping bag and decorating tip to decorate, or just place a dollop on each slice.
The marshmallow Fluff-like consistency and stickiness make it difficult to get intricate decorating with pastry tips, but you could just pipe a mound on top of the pie and use an offset spatula to create spikes
Once you are satisfied with the marshmallow coverage, use a blowtorch to toast that fluff. You could also place it under a broiler, but that’s far less fun and controllable.
A few notes:
- I prefer a cooking torch to torch the. marshmallow versus putting under a broiler. You have more control.
- If you do not like ginger snaps, try Biscoff cookies or graham crackers.
- The marshmallow can be made ahead and stored in the refrigerator.
- To get the best consistency for the marshmallow, use a candy thermometer.
THE RECIPE
The combination of salted pistachios and white chocolate gives these Pistachio White Chocolate Cookies a delicious sweet and salty flavor.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
Crust
- 2 cups finely ground gingersnap cookies (approximately thirty-five 2-inch cookies)
- 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Filling
- 3 sweet potatoes
- 1/2 cup sweetened condensed milk
- 1/2 cup whole milk
- 1/2 cup pineapple juice
- 2 eggs, at room temperature
- 1 egg yolk
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
Honey Marshmallow Topping
- 1 cup granulated sugar
- 1/4 cup honey
- 1/4 cup water
- 1/4 cup egg whites, at room temperature
- 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
MAKE THE CRUST
Step 1:
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Wrap the entire outside of a 9-inch springfoam pan tightly in two layers of foil, all the way to the top.
Step 2:
In a medium bowl, combine the gingersnaps and cayenne. Stir in melted butter until evenly incorporated. Press the mixture into the bottom of the prepared pan and up the sides as far as you are able.
Step 3:
Bake the crust for 10 minutes, or until golden and aromatic.
Step 4:
Remove from the oven and set aside on a wire rack. Keep the oven on.
MAKE THE FILLING
Step 1:
Using a fork, poke holes in the sweet potatoes and roast on a baking sheet for about 45 minutes, or until a bubbly liquid begins to leak out of the skins.
Step 2:
Remove from the oven and cool for 5 minutes. Carefully peel the potatoes and pass the flesh through a potato ricer into a medium bowl. Alternatively, in a bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment or in a large bowl using a handheld mixer, beat the flesh to smooth it into a puree. Set aside to cool.
Step 3:
In a medium bowl, whisk together the condensed milk, whole milk, pineapple juice, whole eggs, and egg yolk. Stir this mixture into the sweet potato puree until smooth.
Step 4:
Whisk in the sugar and salt, followed by the butter.
Step 5:
Scrape the filling directly into the crust and bake in the center of the oven for 10 minutes. Decrease the oven temperature to 300°F and bake for 50 to 60 minutes longer, rotating the pie after 25 minutes, until the pie is just set in the middle. Let the pie cook completely.
MAKE THE TOPPING
Step 1:
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the sugar, honey, and water. Attach a candy thermometer to the rim of the pot and bring the mixture to a simmer over high heat.
Step 2:
While the sugar is cooking, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment or in a large bowl using a handheld mixer, whip the egg whites on medium-high speed until foamy.
Step 3:
Reduce the speed to moderately low and mix in the cream of tartar.
Step 4:
When the sugar syrup reaches 230° on the thermometer, adjust the mixer to high speed. When the sugar reaches 240°, remove the pan from the heat, turn the mixer to moderate speed, and very carefully pour the sugar syrup into the egg white mixture, pouring it down the inside of the bowl; do not hit the whisk, as it will send molten sugar flying through the air.
Step 5:
Once the sugar syrup is fully incorporated, increase the mixer speed to high and whip until the mixture is cool, about 10 minutes.
Step 6:
Transfer the marshmallow topping to a pastry bag, if you have one, or leave it in the bowl. You can make the marshmallow up to 1 day ahead and keep it in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Sweet Potato and Toasted Honey Marshmallow Pie
Ingredients
Crust
2 cups finely ground gingersnap cookies (approximately thirty-five 2-inch cookies)
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Filling
3 sweet potatoes
1/2 cup sweetened condensed milk
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup pineapple juice
2 eggs, at room temperature
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
Honey Marshmallow Topping
1 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup honey
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup egg whites, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
Instructions
Make the Crust
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Wrap the entire outside of a 9-inch springfoam pan tightly in two layers of foil, all the way to the top.
In a medium bowl, combine the gingersnaps and cayenne. Stir in melted butter until evenly incorporated.
Press the mixture into the bottom of the prepared pan and up the sides as far as you are able.
Bake the crust for 10 minutes, or until golden and aromatic.
Remove from the oven and set aside on a wire rack. Keep the oven on.
Make the Filling
Using a fork, poke holes in the sweet potatoes and roast on a baking sheet for about 45 minutes, or until a bubbly liquid begins to leak out of the skins.
Remove from the oven and cool for 5 minutes. Carefully peel the potatoes and pass the flesh through a potato ricer into a medium bowl. Alternatively, in a bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment or in a large bowl using a handheld mixer, beat the flesh to smooth it into a puree. Set aside to cool.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the condensed milk, whole milk, pineapple juice, whole eggs, and egg yolk. Stir this mixture into the sweet potato puree until smooth.
Whisk in the sugar and salt, followed by the butter.
Scrape the filling directly into the crust and bake in the center of the oven for 10 minutes. Decrease the oven temperature to 300°F and bake for 50 to 60 minutes longer, rotating the pie after 25 minutes, until the pie is just set in the middle. Let the pie cook completely.
Make the Topping
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the sugar, honey, and water. Attach a candy thermometer to the rim of the pot and bring the mixture to a simmer over high heat.
While the sugar is cooking, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment or in a large bowl using a handheld mixer, whip the egg whites on medium-high speed until foamy.
Reduce the speed to moderately low and mix in the cream of tartar.
When the sugar syrup reaches 230° on the thermometer, adjust the mixer to high speed. When the sugar reaches 240°, remove the pan from the heat, turn the mixer to moderate speed, and very carefully pour the sugar syrup into the egg white mixture, pouring it down the inside of the bowl; do not hit the whisk, as it will send molten sugar flying through the air.
Once the sugar syrup is fully incorporated, increase the mixer speed to high and whip until the mixture is cool, about 10 minutes.
Transfer the marshmallow topping to a pastry bag, if you have one, or leave it in the bowl. You can make the marshmallow up to 1 day ahead and keep it in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Preheat the Broiler
Top the cooled pie with the marshmallow topping and brown it under the broil to your heart’s content.
Alternatively, use a blowtorch to brown the top before serving. The pie can be loosely tented with foil and refrigerated for up to 3 days. You might want to blast the marshmallow with a torch to refresh it a bit before serving.
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Nutrition Facts
Calories
599.77
Fat
21.11 g
Sat. Fat
11.68 g
Carbs
98.23 g
Fiber
3.23 g
Net carbs
95.02 g
Sugar
68 g
Protein
7.74 g
Sodium
411.65 mg
Cholesterol
111.58 mg